Professional Portfolio Shoots

“Professional Portfolio Photography Kent…”

 Are you looking for Professional Portfolio Photography Kent? Maybe you’re in search of a makeover Session to go with your portraits shoot. I provide either a studio environment or Location suitable to your needs.

Having quality high-resolution images for your business or modelling career is key to a successful career & business. Professional Portfolio Photography in Kent is what I do, I provide entertainment & independent professionals, with photographs of a there chosen line of work or business products, as well entry level to intermediates with the quality workmanship photographs that you need.

Furthermore, I cover album art and professionally edited designs & images to your specifications. With full online support & proofing, I am at the top of the league in bringing to you the level of quality of images you would expect.

For advertising & personal branding as well as modelling through to fashion design.  Adding fresh new material to your portfolio no problem I cater for all your requirements.

I include portfolios & images of high-resolution quality. I am the number one choice for all your Professional Portfolio Photography Kent. My portfolios range from standard cases to luxury leather with A4 clear pockets. Showcase your photographs in a professional case from the start of your photo shoot through to final results. I provide to you an approachable creative level of professionalism and friendly service at all times.

https://www.simoneverettphotographykent.co.uk/ 

Learning Photography in Kent

Kent Photography Courses.

Based in Kent, I cater for groups and one2one training to make you a better photographer.

My courses are designed to make the full use of your camera in any situation, from poor lighting conditions to over bright days, to action to beautiful Wedding photography.

Courses are set up in Kent locations…

Riverside country park Medway a great location with access to the river, wildlife sea birds and some interesting wreck locations.

Eynsford countryside this amazing location shows some of Kent’s beautiful countryside, meeting points at the Lullingstone country park to eagle heights. Or any good location can be suitable for what you would like to photograph, contact me for details.

Wedding photography courses are also available, Teaching you all basics of what you will need location and recce work, through to planning, and looking for those all important angles and posing shots and workflow.

I cover the aspects of moving from auto to Aperture priority mode to Shutter priority mode to manual mode, the control of ISO, composition, leading angles, framing  your shot, and more. tea and coffee provided but please bring your own lunch and some water.

We continue to work through what you have learned and putting them into practice situation.

We follow on from the basics of learning the main modes of shooting to ways to improve your photography, holding your camera using things around you, shooting angles, getting you more comfortable with your camera putting your knowledge into practice, sharing your results, what makes a good shot and what may not. Please bring your own lunch.

for more information on how to pre-book your course follow the link below.

Photography Courses in Kent 

Butley Priory Wedding Photos - Jessica and Martin - Hello Romance Photography - Unique Wedding Photography in Ipswich, Suffolk and Essex

Butley Priory Wedding Photos - Jessica and Martin - Hello Romance Photography - Unique Wedding Photography in Ipswich, Suffolk and Essex



Hi Helloromance,  Like your style of wedding photography the choice of colour filtering is really

nice, clean and well published .



best wishes

Simon

www.simoneverettphotographykent.co.uk

Wedding Workflow

Wedding photography workflow...

All wedding photographers will know what i’m talking about with regards, the post processing work flow.

Simply put When the glam and excitement of the wedding day is over and day one of the happily married couple start their journey, and all the guests the have gone home, the Photographer will also start a journey, of a different kind. Thinking that a photographer will take lots of snaps pop down to the chemist and have them developed and collect them in the next 24hours..those days a far gone and if only that where true, The photographer or editor will start a journey into..
Post processing this in most cases but not all can take longer than the wedding venue itself and where the photographer or editor comes into their own.
As a wedding photographer you are faced with the following agenda, several probably full up CF or SD memory cards capturing the whole day, which now have to be downloaded in some cases this can take 30 minutes to an hour depending on how many images are taking, in a lot of cases upto or just over 1000 images.

Once they have been downloaded they will be backed up at least twice on separate Computer hard drives in case the only backed up set is damaged or deleted.
Now the images would be In most cases taken in RAW format meaning that this is the largest file the camera will be able to capture of a single image most of you will know of Jpegs however Jpegs differ from Raw files in the following way a jpeg image is approx.: 1-2 megabytes in size where by a raw image is approx: depending on your mega pixel camera 20 megapixels in size so something to consider if you have a Gmail account they will only allow you to send something like 20Mb of data in short one raw photo as jpegs are 1-2 Mbs so you can obviously send more. However that’s not always a good thing.

Raw files hold three times as much data/detail than a jpeg will so if your planning on having that enlargement photo of yourself holding that special can of lager in your favourite pub watching your football team no names mentioned then the raw file can be blow up to a much larger scale without any image quality lost, unlike a jpeg it will compress the image data for you, the upsides and downsides shooting jpegs all day is fine as you can have plenty of images captured on your memory card where is Raw as they are much larger files will eat up more room of your memory card thus less images.
Raws are mainly used for people wanting full control over their image in order to change or process it how they would like to see it, using many, different techniques, from colour change, exposure and so on.

So we have backed up our images twice we have now two sets of Raws safely downloaded, the next step is to upload one set to a photo editing software in most cases again this would normally be Photoshop or light room, however which one to use and why, I have found that Lightroom is the only choice for speeding up the workflow process, by simple matter of organising the images, adding meta data which is the hidden details created within the images data saying that who owns the image when it was taken and camera details of settings etc.
In light room many alterations will be changed as described above, exposure, colour correction softness, detail the list is quite endless.
Most editors would have several if not several dozen pre-set, filters as they may have done editing before, or being a professional editor etc. These are clickable filters that will instantly change the chosen or several chosen images to a pacific look hence this speeds up the post processing time frame.

Once some hours have passed in a lot of cases if processing approx: 1000 images can take an entire day or several days, final touches we be made and then within light room you can add a watermarked proofing copyright as well as keeping an original set for the clients once the proofing has been viewed, by the clients.

Again all these images can and should be backed up again in case of technical issues, as we would not want to spend another day re-doing them all again!!.
Photoshop can be used for special effects and other filter effects or as a stand-alone for just simple editing, but does not have a great ability of the workflow as the light room software has, however I still use it for several reasons.

Once the proofing has been completed in most cases the couple can view up to 500 of the images taken, the couple will choose their final image they require whether it be full wedding albums, frames USB, DVDs etc. & that would normally be the end of the process in my case I would keep the images for one year of the venue date in case other images would be requested.
So I hope this was a small insight into the general post processing of a standard wedding photography venue, if you may of thought it is a one day job please think again there is far more to the process, to say nothing about the issues of lost images which can and does happen weddings are normally one shot deals we have to get them right as there is No second chance, I think this is some reasons why a lot of photographers steer clear of them due to a stress factor or high demand and expectations , but if you love taking photographers it is an experience not to forget.

I hope this was a useful insight in to what’s involved within a wedding photography day.

To find out more about me you can find me at the following link
www.simoneverettphotographykent.co.uk

best wishes
Simon.

Negative Space

Negative Space

It’s a while since I last turned out a blog-tutorial, so today I thought I would try a technique more than a tutorial of sorts.
Negative Space what is it how do we create it, and what is it used for, are just some of the questions that people ask about it.
So put simply Negative Space is a large area of the photograph taken up with either blank space for example sky or a large wall or textured area the negative side is that the space itself is either blank-empty or filled with something of the same texture good example a plain brick wall, and within the photo an object or person can be placed, a lot of people who take photographs of family friends will normally take the opposite approach to negative space and capture the
photograph with the family member or friend very close, naturally because they want to show it to people and for people to see who it is etc. it’s the norm: However with Negative Space it’s a representation of showing an object or person in a wider spectrum, it can be a very interesting final result and provides an amazing lift to your style of photography.
Some examples below are of objects in Negative Space.
Using different angles and perspectives you can achieve different results also using telephoto lenses can also create very dramatic depth of field effects, whilst either keeping the colour effect or B&W depending of which you feel works best.
Never be afraid to experiment, as Negative Space photography can be done both during the day or night.
So why not try it today find an area near where you live a large wall or just use the sky even with a simple lamppost will work.
Quick tip if your shooting objects like lamps, pillars, cranes, chimneys etc. remember composition have the objects to the left or right of the final image this will give the negative space effect a more open look, this works 90% of the time.
I hope you enjoyed this blog.


http://www.simoneverettphotographykent.co.uk/

My experience‘s as a photographer.

By Simon Everett- photographer

35mm film

Starting from my latter schools days being given a B&W film camera & told to go off in small groups to the local town to photograph anything of interest, so we did just that, from doorways , passing 80s vehicles to local people walking into shops, we took 36 images of a 35mm of Kodak  roll of film.
After developing them in a dark room to the finished product the smell of the film & to see the hard work that we produced the final images, it was then I was sold to the idea that photography was something that would be a big part of my life.

The digital age.

So many camera’s what do you pick do you go Canon or do you go Nikon, or perhaps another make, for me I chose Canon why, I really couldn’t say perhaps I saw a lot of people with Canons at the time, so opted to go with the flow.
Now what would I take photographs, of  what would I be good at, what would I be bad at, it is a fine balance of what you feel comfortable with, & what you like to shoot, will you shoot weddings, landscapes, portraits, product or even the ever increasing world of street photography, there are many fields to choose from, So many people are put off by wedding photography  they can be stressful & you have little time to relax as the environment is forever changing, but I feel that I wanted to try every form of photography to experience it for myself, at least this would give me an idea of what I liked & didn’t like, As a photographer I can say I love all forms of photography, in all types of conditions & Environments which surprised me at the time, it’s a subject that I enjoy to learn and share with others.

Learning the skills

Learning the skills and aspects of your camera and equipment is key, never be in a rush to learn it all in a small time frame, it can take while, go through so give yourself a schedule of time to cover the area’s you want to learn as well as the general settings of your camera. First your manual will help you, even though I did not readily look to often at my manual I always referred to learning from youtube, from people like Christian at Academy of Photography, the tips,tricks & techniques to achieve better photos. Youtube is a massively useful resource of information.
Photography for me is always about learning something new all the time and above all to practice, practice, practice. If you have the passion of photography you will find that learning it is very enjoyable.

Conclusion

Whether you are new to photography or professional,  there is always something to be learnt, and lots of good people to meet and to share your work and ideas, it is like one big community.
Ranking myself as a photographer was easy enough deciding if I am a professional,  I left to others to give me feedback on how my photographs came across to them. After many years of taking tens of thousands of Photographs, I can say this it can be used not only as a form of making money but a worthwhile and relaxing hobby.
To any photographer I will say this keep going out and taking photographs, find great locations by using google maps, do your research, composition, lighting experiment as much as you can and dedicate some time to learning from Christian, and many other great photographers, by using social media and emails, twitter following and so on, you will find a lot of them willing to help you & advise you on issues you may be having or just to learn better techniques.
These are my experiences so far because like any photographer you are always learning.
Please feel free to contact me via my contact page in the menu bar .

Camera lens Cleaning tips

Camera lens Cleaning tips

Today I am going to talk about General cleaning and care of your all, important Camera lenses.
So where to start, what do you need:
You will need the following items:
Lens Cleaning or micro fibre cloth
Air blower or compressed air
Lens cleaning pen
Cotton buds
Soft microfiber cloth and some warm water or lens cleaning solution
As camera lens cost large amounts of money today it is always important to keep them in good working order, the below techniques can be performed at regular intervals, however as a general rule , if I have used any lens outside I would always give them a clean before packing them away, so they are good to go for the next shoot.
Let’s start with the outer casing of the lens this is the part that see’s most of the grubby hands marks and is open to the elements, so we will need to gently clean off any dirty marks. Using a microfiber cloth which you can pick up from any car accessary shop like Halfords or a DIY shop these are especially good for cleaning general dirt from the casing of the lens, using very small amounts of either warm soapy water but only very small amounts or a lens cleaning solutions gently wipe around the general area where you would normally use the focus ring taking care not to over soak the cloth and have access water or solution running down the lens, continue to change the cloth wiping area as you will notice that this will get increasingly dirty as you clean.

Lens element/ glass cleaning
Caution I would not recommend using any type of solution to wipe over the expensive element –Glass of your lens, for one reason not all lenses are weather sealed, though they can with stand very light rain, and two the lens itself is made with a blend of it’s own chemical mixture when being made, you can tell this as you look at your lens it will have a green, or blue tint to the glass so mixing more chemicals on to it I feel may have a reaction, so I would personally advise against it.
Step one using a lens brush which is very similar to a ladies make up brush lightly brush over the lens to make sure there is no fine particles of grit or sand, as you don’t want to start rubbing a cloth over the lens first as you may be rubbing that grit or sand across the lens which will scratch it.
Baring in mind you may have a UV filter attached this can be the case so using this technique can be done for both UV filter and element glass itself.
Once the brushing is complete you can now use the compressed air to blow anything left of the lens
WARNING: Never use the compressed air can upside down as this will cause the liquid inside to come out and it will instantly freeze to both your lens and your skin causing damage, to both your camera lens and in some cases frost bite. So ensure the can is always upright, and shake well before use, also be warned that prolonged use of the compressed air can it will getting increasingly cold very quickly to the point that you will no longer be able to hold it as it gets to cold, however if you use short controlled bursts of spray you will be fine.

Using a lens cloth
Now that the brushing and air dusting is complete we are ready to clean the glass without water or solution, so what do we use, by simply breathing slowly over the lens it will steam up the lens enough for you to now wipe it over with a lens cleaning cloth, the cloth that I recommend is the Spudz cleaning cloths they come in a couple of different sizes and fold up inside there own little pocket they come with a small belt hook/clip and great for attaching to your camera bag.
Using the cloth to wipe off all the access steam will be all you need to have a nice clean lens.
You can use the same process for cleaning the other end of the element glass also as this end is normally a lot smaller you can use cotton buds but be careful that the cotton does not come off and lay inside the glass area.
Most of these cleaning items are very easy to obtain from your local camera shop, or ebay and very inexpensive.
I hope you found this tip of use I’m Simon Everett
Thanks for reading

You can find out more about me and my work at the following website address
Simoneveretphotographykent.co.uk